Even after yesterday’s mega-tasting, we still pushed on to
visit three more distilleries today, all on the northern part of the island.
First off was Bunnahabhain, where we were scheduled for a
10:30 tasting tour. This is a quirky, out of the way distillery. For many years
it was owned by a large conglomerate and kind of ignored, only able to put out
a 12 year old single malt on a regular basis. In 2003 they were sold (along
with the Black Bottle blend) to a much smaller company, which also owns Tobermory
and Deanston. Production has gone up, the standard lineup has had an 18yr and a
25yr added to the 12yr, and many other limited edition releases have made their
way to market. Two years ago they stopped chill filtering, and raised the proof
of the 12yr, 18yr, and 25yr from 43% abv to 46.3% abv.
Most of what they make is minimally peated, around 2ppm, but
they do make spirit from heavily peated (15 to 25 ppm) malt for a few weeks at
the end of the year before all of the equipment gets an annual clean out.
The tour was fairly standard, photography was allowed, just
no flashes. The biggest thing that stood out was the size of the mash tun,
which was bigger than the new one at Caol Ila, where they have almost triple
the capacity. The mash runs much longer at Bunnahabhain than most other
distilleries, I think around 10 or 12 hours, where most of the rest seem to be
about 4 to 6 hours. They also add water to the mash is 4 stages here, when
everyone else does just 3. I’m guessing this is done do maximize efficiency and
get every drop of starch and sugar out of the grain that they can.
For some reason the 4 stills at Bunnahabhain were quite
tarnished, where all the others we have seen practically glowing for the most
part. I didn’t want to ask there and offend, so I’m still trying to figure out
the reason for that.
We eventually made our way back to the tasting room, for a
run through two from the standard lineup (12 and 18), and two more rare
bottlings: Darich Ùr, which is aged in new charred oak, and Toiteach, which is
the heavily peated version.
Darich Ùr, no age statement, 46.3% abv. Warm, vanilla and
other oak flavors, tastes like something that is half way between bourbon and
scotch. It is missing the rich malty flavors that I love in the 12yr.
12yr, 46.3% abv. More sherry flavors, dark dry fruit, malt
& biscuit.
18yr, 46.3% abv. Not a huge difference from the 12yr.
Smoother and maybe a bit more oak spice
Toiteach, no age statement, 46% abv. Floral up front, then
into peat smoke. Slow, mellow, long lasting peat.
I have a bottle of 12yr and a bottle of 18yr at home, and
plan to do a more complete comparison of the two in the coming months
From here we journeyed down to Bruichladdich. It was bound
to happen sooner or later – we had to visit a distillery but forgo the tour. No
disrespect to the fine people here, we just got too tight on time and a tour
didn’t fit in the schedule. But we did visit their impressive shop and taste a
few samples before purchasing some miniatures and 200ml bottles. I’ll write up
tasting notes when I try them again at home. The shop had an unbelievable
number of bottlings for sale, and many of them were available to be sampled as
well.
Much like Ardbeg, Bruichladdich was brought back from the
brink after a long closure, and they have also had many changes in their
product line due to age gaps in the stock. In contrast to Ardbeg, they are big
proponents of cask finishing, or Additional Cask Enhancement as they prefer to
call it. This is the practice of aging primarily in one type of cask, usually
bourbon barrels, then transferring the whisky to another cask (port, sherry, various
wines) for a short period of time before bottling. Ardbeg does the opposite,
they age in different cask types, but the whisky stays in one cask from
start to finish. Then whisky from various cask types is vatted together to
get the desired flavor. I don’t think there is anything wrong with either of
these methods; they are just going by different philosophies to produce great
end products.
In spite of missing the tour, it was still fun to wonder
around outside the distillery and take photos of the many different, very
specific cask types they had out there.
Finally, we made our way down the road a few miles to Islay’s newest distillery, Kilchoman, which began
distilling at the end of 2005. Lunch from their café was excellent.
This distillery was started with the purchase of land and a
few old farm buildings. Barley was planted, roofs repaired, and new distilling
equipment installed. The intention here is to be a small scale farm distillery
and do everything in-house, including malting and bottling. But even with a
maximum capacity of just over 100,000 liters of spirit per year, they can still
only produce 30% of the malted barley they need (this is moderately peated).
The rest comes from an outside source (and is heavily peated). But they do keep
the liquid produced from the two different malted barley sources separate, so
you can know which you are buying a bottle of.
This tour wasn’t too different from the others, but it was
very interesting to see everything being done on such a small scale relative to
the other distilleries.
They have been doing limited releases of quite young whisky
for a few years now, managing to generate revenue and interest in the brand.
Many of these have been surprisingly good for their young ages. Tastings
included in the tour were Machir Bay and 100% Islay.
I picked up several miniatures here and will put together full tasting notes at
home eventually.
I made one last stop on the way back to home base – Duffie’s
Bar in the Lochside Hotel in the town of Bowmore. I had heard they have 300
single malts, that is impressive anywhere. When I got there and looked at the
list I realized they had 300 Islay single
malts. That is Crazy. I was hoping that the 25yr Bunnahabhain would be part of
the tasting tour I did in the morning, but no such luck. I thought I might try
it at a bar, but at £25 for a drink, and considering the minimal difference
between the 12yr and the 18yr, I decided my money would be better spent in
other ways. So I dropped down the price scale to £10.50 (which seems cheap when
you look at the rest of the list) and tried a Bunnahabhain 16yr Manzanilla
Sherry Wood Finish. A lovely dram enjoyed in a spectacular location.
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