stats:
Springbank 10yr, single malt scotch, Campbeltown, 46%, $69
Springbank 15yr, single malt scotch, Campbeltown, 46%, $104
I think I expounded on the inner workings of the Springbank
distillery during my time there (starting here)
to the point of leaving nothing to discuss for this post. But fear not, another
burning topic will lend itself to this tasting quite well.
Over the years of comparing various whiskies, I’ve noticed
that many times different age variants of the same whisky can have very little
difference in their flavor profiles. I think this first came to my attention
five years ago, with 12yr Chivas Regal and their 18yr old. Slightly less smoke
and slightly more oak was all that really stood out to me. All of that for a
fairly significant jump in price (not to mention that I kind of preferred the
12yr). Around the same time I compared 10yr and 18yr Glenmorangie, and found
them very similar.
But I’ve recently seen this trend reversing, and current
releases of 18yr Glenmorangie taste quite distinctive compared to the 10yr. I
suspect that many consumers grew wise to the fact that a considerable increase
in age, along with a much bigger price tag, often didn’t correspond to very much
of a difference on the palate. And I’m guessing that many distillers, eager to
drive sales of their more expensive offerings, realized that they had to take
extra steps to make their older bottlings taste more unique.
Bottling the different ages at different proofs is one quick
and easy way to achieve this. Chill filtering the entry level offering and
going unfiltered on the older examples would also do the trick. For distillers
that use a combination of bourbon and sherry casks, varying the percentages in
the mix seems like it is becoming more common, usually with the amount of
sherry cask whisky in the vatting increasing as you progress through the age
range. Some prime examples of the last technique would be Tobermory 10yr and
15yr, Glengoyne 10yr and 17yr, and An Cnoc 12yr and 16yr (in this case the
younger of the two sees more sherry wood). Another method is to simply utilize
cask management / selection. The distillery manager will pick casks with a
certain flavor profile for the flagship age, and hold back casks that taste
different / better for further maturation.
So, how do the two Springbanks compare?
10yr
light golden amber in color.
fruit and mild peat on the nose.
amazingly full flavored, with plenty of fruit (apple and
orange), followed by a hint of vanilla and brine. as the fruit fades, dry oak
spice and gentle, but firm peat smoke take up the slack. wonderful complexity
and a long, enduring finish. a true classic.
15yr
very close to the 10yr in color, just a touch darker.
the nose is more restrained, with dry oak spice notes
leading the way.
there’s plenty of flavor here as well, but the fruit is less
bright, more along the lines of dark and baked fruits (apple pie, etc). the oak
spice is drier and warmer (cinnamon spice). the brine and peat smoke are still
present, but toned town quite a bit. the finish is also lengthy, but much
drier.
I think the folks at Springbank have done a nice job of
making some differentiation between these two expressions without taking it too
far. They aren’t radically different from each other, but still distinctive
enough so that consumers wouldn’t feel like they wasted their money on the 15
year. I have to admit that, even though I’d be happy to drink either one, I do
like the 10 year a little more. I would put that down to personal preference
though.
I’m guessing that
there is slightly more sherry aged whisky in the 15, and possibly some cask
selection leaning toward a drier profile. Unfortunately, one thing I missed at
whisky school was the process for selecting the group of casks that would be
vatted together before bottling. Given the opportunity, I’d be sure to explore
this topic further.
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