stats: Japanese single malt whisky, 43%, $135
I find it surprising that I’ve been writing this blog for a
year and a half and haven’t yet broached the subject of Japanese whisky – it’s
something I’ve had a mild fascination with for several years.
Of the five major whisk(e)y producing nations, Japan’s whisky
industry is the youngest and the only one whose history can be traced back to
just a few men. One of those men, Masataka Taketsuru, is generally regarded as
the father of Japanese whisky.
Born in 1894 to a family which had owned a sake brewery for
many generations, Masataka went to work for the spirits producing company
Settsu Shuzo, after graduating from the Osaka Technical
High School. Just three
years into his career there, he was chosen to go to Scotland and learn the secrets of
that country’s whisky industry, toward the end of 1918.
He enrolled in chemistry classes at Glasgow University,
and by April of 1919 had landed a brief internship at the Longmorn distillery.
After marrying a Scottish native in January of 1920, Masataka and his new wife
moved to Campbeltown, where he began working at the Hazelburn distillery. By
November of 1920, the couple had made their way to Japan.
Whisk(e)y from the Europe and North America made its way to Japan after the
1850’s, when the country started to engage in trade with the West. In the early
1900’s many firms in Japan
were trying to emulate these whiskies by producing spirits flavored with herbs,
spices and perfumes. Unfortunately, the post World War I economic depression
caused Masataka’s employers to continue on that path, and give up their plans
to use his newly acquired knowledge to produce proper whisky. He left the
company out of frustration in 1922.
But not all was lost. In 1899 Kotobukiya, a wine and liquor
importing business was started by Shinjiro Torii. He was fascinated by whisky
and aspired to start a whisky distillery in Japan. In 1923, Shinjiro hired
Masataka Taketsuru to oversee the building and operation of his Yamazaki
distillery, near Osaka.
Authentic whisky was finally being made in Japan in 1924,
but Torii and Taketsuru could never agree on a house style. Masasaka remained
true to the Scotch Whisky flavor profile he knew from his formative years
abroad, which was powerful, robust and smoky. Shinjiro favored a much lighter
style of whisky that would have mass appeal to the Japanese consumer. The two
men parted ways in 1929.
Masasaka’s wife, Rita, had been teaching English for many
years and it was through her connections that he was able to secure investors
in his new firm, Nikka, and build his Yoichi distillery in 1934 on the island of Hokkaido. Nikka added a second
distillery, Miyagikyo, in 1969.
Shinjiro Torii’s firm, Kotobukiya, became Suntory in the 1960’s.
In addition to the Yamazaki distillery, they opened the Hakushu distillery in
1973.
These are the four major whisky distilleries in Japan today,
although several smaller, less significant outfits also make Japanese whisky.
For many years Yamazaki 12yr and 18yr were the only Japanese whiskies exported
to the U.S.,
but that has started to change in recent years.
Enough of the history lesson, let’s get on to the tasting.
The color is a dark, rich amber, almost mahogany.
The full, complex nose has nutty, floral and malty sweet
aromas.
It is full bodied, complex and evolving on the palate. It
starts of nutty and slightly floral (just enough to add depth) with a malty
richness, before giving way to the dark, cooked fruit flavors typical of sherry
cask maturation.
Then it moves into the warming, slightly spicy, long finish
with some of the earlier flavors lingering gently.
I really like this whisky, it’s well made and nicely
balanced, but it has a sense of intrigue about it. Even though it could pass as
Single Malt Scotch in a blind tasting, there’s still a certain uniqueness to
it.
No comments:
Post a Comment