At last, I have reached the final Scotland follow-up post. This one
will include an almost forgotten whisky review, but first a few thank-yous are
in order.
We had the good fortune to stay at a series of top notch
B&B’s, with wonderful proprietors who were instrumental in making our trip
a truly special experience. Gary and Sue at the Heatherfield House in Oban,
Jane and Adrian at the Strongarbh House in Tobermory on Mull, Andrea and Donna
at the Cala Sith Guest House in Port Ellen on Islay, and Angela and Callum at
the Feorlin Guest House in Campbeltown; they all could not be thanked enough in
person. Their warm hospitality, local knowledge, and phenomenal home cooked
meals made our trip the journey of a lifetime.
We also met a lot of great people along the way; tour
guides, bartenders, distillery workers and whisky tourists from many other nations
among them. But our Whiskey
School mentors deserve
special thanks. Pop, Norman, Kerry and Gordon at Springbank graciously allowed
us to interrupt their normal work routines. Their generous information,
patience and good nature were greatly appreciated.
As one drives south across Islay on the A846, the wide open
agricultural landscape is suddenly interrupted by the massive, looming
buildings of the Port Ellen Malting facility on the northern outskirts of the
town of Port Ellen. Once the site of the distillery of the same name, many of
the original warehouses and other distillery buildings lie just out of site
behind the newer, dominant structures.
The distillery dates back to 1825, and even though no whisky
was produced from 1929 until a 1967 rebuild, malting and warehousing operations
continued throughout that time. The Port Ellen Maltings (where the process is
an automated, mechanized alternative to traditional floor maltings) was
constructed in 1974, alongside the distillery. Malted barley from this facility
has been supplied to most of the distilleries on Islay
since 1987, but originally its malt only went to Caol Ila, Lagavulin and Port
Ellen. Those three distilleries were acquired by Distillers Company Limited
(DCL) in the 1920’s. The 1980’s brought tough times to the scotch industry, and
with three Islay distilleries in their
portfolio, Port Ellen was deemed to be surplus and closed in 1983. Many single
malt enthusiasts bemoan that fateful decision to this day. A series of mergers
and acquisitions starting in 1986 eventually put the three brands, along with
many others, in the hands of current owners, Diageo.
Not having produced any whisky for close to 30 years, Port
Ellen single malt is becoming a rare commodity, and expensive. My last night on
Islay seemed like an appropriate time to take
the plunge. I made the short walk to the pub at the Ardview Inn, bearing the
brunt of the Islay head wind, and ordered up a 27 year old Port Ellen (at 46% abv, distilled
in the spring of 1983, from independent bottler Douglas McGibbon). I then sat
quietly in the corner, tasting, contemplating, and typing notes into my phone.
My tasting notes, just about verbatim: Pale straw yellow. Good nose of sweet smooth smoke. Smooth moderate
peat smoke on the palate, moves nicely through a range of flavors, from stone
fruit to peaty smoke to a warming spicy finish, back into floral and fruit at
the end.
So, did I like it? Was it worth it? While I certainly
thought it was a well made, enjoyable single malt, I wasn’t blown away, and I definitely
tasted more impressive offerings that week. But I think that may just come down
to personal preference more than anything else. £25 is a steep price to pay for
a single drink, at least in my world. While I found it to be an enjoyable dram,
I wouldn’t pay that much for a second sampling. But to me it was worth the
price just to satisfy my curiosity, and at the time I was able to justify the
expense with an utterance of “hey, I’m on vacation after all”.
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