stats: single malt scotch, Islay,
92 proof, $60
My original intention was to post reviews of the Kilchoman
Spring 2011 Release and an early Kilkerran release before I left for Scotland, as a
prelude to the trip. Of course, planning and preparations for the trip took
precedence, and those posts were put on the back burner. There are still a few Scotland
follow-ups to come, but I’m going to intersperse them with these reviews to
keep things fresh.
Kilchoman is one of a handful of new distilleries built in Scotland in the last ten years, and the first
new one to open on Islay in 124 years. Opening
a new distillery from scratch has got to be a daunting prospect. Land and
buildings must be purchased or leased, milling, mashing, fermenting and
distilling equipment must be acquired. Casks are another big expense. All of
that and many years of production costs until you have properly aged whisky to
sell. Unless you have incredibly deep pockets, something else must be done to
generate revenue more quickly. Some new whisky companies will start off making
vodka or gin for quick cash flow in the early years. Others will sell futures
(pay now for the whisky that will be ready in 10 years).
Kilchoman has taken a dual approach to solving this problem.
They actually started off as an independent bottler using the MacBeatha brand
name. Not much info is available, but these all appear to be distilled at other
Islay distilleries and bottled at Kilchoman. I
did see one such bottle on display at Kilchoman during my recent visit, but
didn’t think to ask about it at the time. The second method employed by Islay’s newest distiller has been to bottle and release
some very young expressions. They started with 1 month, 1 year and 2 year old
new spirit (Scottish law dictates that it must be aged at least 3 years to be
called whisky), followed by several releases in the 3 – 5 year range. The
current popularity of all things Islay
combined with excitement over the first new distiller on the island in more
than a century has fueled demand for these early releases. But this can be a
risky strategy - if the young offerings don’t impress, the brand’s reputation
can be damaged at an early stage.
The Spring 2011 Release is comprised of 4yr (30%) and 3yr
(70%), all of which was aged in first fill bourbon barrels, with the 4yr being
finished in oloroso sherry butts for 5 weeks.
The nose is dense and smoky in a youthful way without coming
across as immature. Fairly heavy in body with aggressive smoke up front on the
palate, countered by a balancing richness, which quickly gives way to
smoldering peat flavors. Then it gradually progresses into the long, camp-fire
finish which is laced with subtle fruit notes.
It is quite enjoyable regardless of age, and that much
more impressive when its youth is taken into account. I’m guessing that by the
time it reaches 10 years it will gain complexity and lose some of its intensity.
Lovely now and showing great potential.
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